Wednesday, April 28, 2010

Birthday at Hibiscus

Hot off the press from Monday, the San Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurants have just been announced. Only 3 restaurants from the UK made it onto the list this year, old favourites Fat Duck, St John, and a new entry at number 49 for Hibiscus.


Either Fil is psychic (unlikely), or just very well trained (even more unlikely), but it ended up being the venue of my surprise birthday dinner a few weeks ago! For their Friday and Saturday nights, you don't get a menu, you just get to choose the number of courses you want: 4, 6, or 8. We decided to be averagely fat and went for 6 courses. Here they are without any commentary from me:

Amuse bouche

Apple and Carrot Soda

Devon brown crab

Salad of Devonshire Crab, Tokyo White Turnip, Kentish Sea Leaves, Cream & Smoked Olive Oil Dressing


Black bream

Cornish Black Bream Stuffed with Morels & Kaffir Lime, New Season Broad Beans & Coffee

Snails

Fricassee of Herefordshire Snails, Turkish Morels, “Vin Jaune” Sauce & Wild Chervil

Squab Pigeon

Roast Squab Pigeon, Tamarillo Confit in Muscovado, New Season Carrot & Passion Fruit Puree, Cheltenham Beetroot


Selection of British & French Cheeses

From Neal’s Yard and Bernard Antony


Pre dessert

Strawberries and Celeriac with Sichuan Pepper Foam

Winter Garden

Iced Nougat Parfait of Candied Roots, Physalis Coulis


I'm a bit dubious about the World's 50 Best list anyway. I've only been to 6 on the list, and only one of them (lovely Martin of San Sebastian) is the only meal I would say has absolutely blown my mind.

I loved loved the surprise element at Hibiscus, especially as I wouldn't have ordered the best dish of the lot. The stuffed sea bream was a creation of wonder, I could have happily eaten about 5 portions of it. And the other thing I absolutely adored was the so right cheese selection (you can tell I was excited as I didn't even take a picture) - fourme d'ambert, comte, a goatey one and a soft stinky one. I couldn't really have asked for a better place for my birthday.

But obviously, now I have to overanalyse every aspect of my dining experience, there were a few niggly things I have. First, the dining room is really odd, the tables a bit too spaced out almost, and I'm not sure about the minimalist blonde panelling, the room needed more character. I also thought it was weird to have two dishes with morels (the sea bream and the snails) back to back; unfortunately the sea bream dish was so so good, the snails felt like a let down. And finally, I really disliked the dessert. I know I'm not a dessert person, but this was just an odd choice to try and display your dessert talents. Simply not very nice at all!

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