Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Hurrah for Australian produce

I am pretty negative so far about the quality of Australian food on this blog, and maybe I am being a bit unfair. The quality of the supermarkets are absolutely woeful, wine is atrociously expensive, cheese only comes in "Tasty" and "Non-Tasty" varieties (I still haven't figured what these are by the way, anyone care to enlighten me??), to the extent that I'm looking forward to a trip to Sainsbury's when I return to London.

However, I will put a rebalance back and rave about some of the excellent fresh produce (although you will have to go to a decent deli):
  • Avocados - Australian ones are absolutely lush. Given they are locally grown, you will only find them pretty ripe for eating, I eat about one a week, at least
  • Blood oranges - such a disturbing colour, but so delicious. I managed to drip its blood red juice all down my pyjamas the other day, that will teach me to eat oranges just before bed
  • Cherries - I'm not sure whether these are actually local, but the ones I regularly buy are just fat and juicy unlike the ones back home. Second fruit-related accident this week was me swallowing a cherry whole today, stone and all
  • Japanese pumpkin - ok, not strictly Australian, but widely available and very cheap. I bought a massive hunk for about 40p/80 cents the other day, bargainous
  • Tomatoes - hurrah for tomatoes that actually taste of tomatoes!
  • Prawns - unfortunately I don't have a fishmonger anywhere near me to regularly eat these, but they are huge without compromising on taste here. And also absolutely beautiful to look at - pink with blueish tinges on the tail. Best eaten as sashimi - mmmm!

Big shout out for Fratelli Fresh on Macleay St in Potts Point - absolute pleasure to go round stroking all the beautiful vegetables. And often much cheaper than the terrible Woolworths supermarket right underneath!

Dead Skippy

I had my first kangaroo the other day. I'm not quite old enough to have watched Skippy, so absolutely no guilt on my part!

I did eat it in the most unlikely of places, the Belgian Beer Cafe in the Rocks. As predicted, they specialise in good European beer, and cooking almost anything in beer, and the beer was very good. I have a weakness for girly fruit beers, and I really liked their framboise raspberry.

The cooking, however, was less successful. They cook mussels in all sorts of weird and wonderful combinations, from the traditional marinere to the slightly questionable "Tintin au Congo" (coconut milk, lemongrass and chilli). However, chargilled kangaroo cooked in Gulden Draak & juniper berry sauce caught my eye:


To be honest, that sauce pretty much ruined what otherwise would've been a good dish. The kangaroo itself was very good - cooked pretty rare, it reminded me of venison, very lean but pretty tender. The sauce, however, clashed rather than complemented the meat - very overpowering, very peppery. Maybe I just don't like juniper much, I can't recall a dish where I've actually thought it tasted nice. Looking around, most people also struggled to finish their giant buckets of mussels.

All in all, a place to hang out and drink good beer rather than actually eat food. Drew actually sent back his lamb shanks (and told the waitress in no uncertain terms that "it is just gross, take it away"), even though he was the one who chose the restaurant in the first place! Ah well, it's not like moules marinere is hard to make at home...

Sunday, August 17, 2008

Singaporean mama food

Another favourite thing to cook for me is laksa, although I acknowledge that the recipe I use is completely inauthentic. I have heavily plagarised Nigel Slater's pumpkin laksa recipe, and I've never actually seen laksa being made before by a Singaporean - but in general I find this version is less greasy than laksas I've eaten in restaurants. The list of ingredients is long, but it is sooooo easy. And it is also a good thing to make for pesky vegetarians.

Connie's completely inauthentic Curry Laksa (serves 4ish)

For the curry paste:
3 large cloves of garlic
Thumb-size piece of ginger
1 stem of lemongrass
Small bunch of coriander (save some for garnish at the end)
Zest of a lime
2 dried chillis
Vegetable oil

For the soup:
1 tin of tomatoes
1 tin of coconut milk
1 pint vegetable stock
Noodles - I tend to prefer thicker Vietnamese style rice noodles, but egg or white noodles are all yummy
2 Kaffir lime leaves
Fish sauce

To serve (any of the below is good, I sometimes have it all!):
Chicken thighs
King prawns
Butternut squash
Spinach
Fishballs

1. Roughly chop the garlic and ginger, and the stems of the coriander, and whizz together with the rest of the curry paste ingredients - add a little oil to help it go round. (This is a great all round curry paste - I normally make too much and always have some in the freezer, and use it as a base for Thai green curries, or as a marinade for grilled prawns or chicken)
2. Fry about 2-3 tablespoons of the paste in a little oil, until your kitchen fills with the lovely smells of coriander
3. Add in tinned tomatoes and let it bubble for a few minutes to let the toms break down a little (little trick clever Dave taught me), before adding in coconut milk, vegetable stock, and kaffir lime leaves, and bring to the boil
4. Add your noodles and bring back to the boil, add a few dashes of fish sauce, and you have your basic laksa soup base to which you can add your variations

Variations:
For chicken - add into the curry paste and fry for 2-3 minutes. Remove, and add back in with the noodles

For king prawns - as above, but add in right at the end to avoid overcooking

For butternut squash - cut the squash into inch cubes and roast with little bit of olive oil for 30-40 minutes. Add in with noodles towards the end

For fishballs - add with the noodles

For spinach - I always put spinach in because it just wilts so quickly - turn the gas off and then stir in the spinach into the hot soup

Here is the version I made tonight, which I managed to eat nearly 3 bowls of (!) - with chicken thighs, fish "tofu", spinach, and Japanese pumpkin (ridiculously cheap here, but what a pain it is to prepare!)

A hat is not a star

My neighbour at work, Albert, is Chinese, and a foodie, so it is not surprising that whenever I am in the office, my productivity drops as we spend the whole day talking about eating here and eating there. This weekend, finally, we ate here and there together.

First stop was Salon Blanc in Woolloomooloo, in the same building as my apartment, and was awarded 1 hat from the Sydney Morning Herald. As I've mentioned before, Michelin inspectors don't appear to have come over to Australia yet, so the Aussies have invented their own system - I've been to several hatted restaurants now, can't say the standard is quite the same. (Although trips to Tetsuya's and Quay coming up in October might change my mind)


Despite its name, Salon Blanc is more French/Mediterranean than French - such their starter menu is tapas based. Started with some ok oysters, followed by some very good belly pork - the skin was so crisp it sticks to your teeth (you know, that feeling you get after eating really excellent 焼肉) :
Main for me was a slightly overcooked T-bone veal, with a olive tapenade that didn't quite go, although I am eternally disappointed with veal. I must say the best veal I've ever eaten was actually at Carluccio's (the now ubiquitous chain in London rather than the Neal Street super restaurant) where they cooked it very simply, quite rare, with it seaped in lemon. I seem to eat a lot of veal at Carluccio's - it was also when Simon, my quite strict veggie friend, decided to start eating meat - I'm not sure baby cow was the best choice to start with...

Anyhow, pud was actually very good, a buttermilk pannacotta with stewed rhubarb and blood orange. I think Sydney chefs have twigged that I will order dessert if rhubarb is featured on the menu:


I thank my mum for letting me eat far too many sweets when I was little, and getting it out of my system - I now have a very unsweet tooth and can happily go without pud. However, this is the kind of thing that would make me eat more dessert - the pannacotta had a lovely twang to it, and I love love love stewed rhubarb.

Albert and I (and Jess) also went to Din Tai Fung for my second visit for Sunday lunch. Very disappointed with their Dan Dan Mein ("it's like noodles smothered in satay sauce", said Jess), but loved their Prawn & Chicken dumplings in tangy sauce.

Thursday, August 14, 2008

Cuddles from maitre d's

I have discovered a new favourite place - the Sardine Room on Challis Ave in Potts Point, a tiny little place specialising in fish and seafood. I walk past this place every weekend, and it has had unbelievable reviews within the online community, and I managed to convince Thang and Jess that this was where we wanted to treat Thang before he left Sydney.

I have read in various places about the over-enthusiastic maitre d'/co-owner of the place, and she certainly most welcoming. She is obviously very proud of the restaurant, and it is lovely to see the pride shine through as she raves about each item on the menu. It is exactly these ridiculously happy, positive people who makes me want to quit my job.

To start: Oysters with pickled cucumber and salmon roe - very fresh, good combination:


Also to start: Scallops with poached apple and hazelnuts - very very good - hazelnuts perfectly complementing the perfectly wobbly scallops:

Third shared starter was salt and pepper squid. Now I must go on another little rant - Sydneysiders love love love their salt and pepper squid, and I'm not quite sure why! It is only absolutely every menu, and never really done particularly well. Again, the squid at Sardine Room had very thick batter, and by the time it arrived was not very hot. Never mind, onwards to the mains, a very luscious scallops with creamy leeks and black truffle risotto:



Accompanied by another main of squid ink taglioni with blue swimmer crab and cherry tomatoes - star dish of the night, excellent pasta:

As you can see, the portions are enormous!!! But us 3 little Asians still managed to polish it off, along with a mixed fish pie (a bit meh) and a coconut pannacotta with cranberry sauce. And as we left, the maitre d' treated Thang to a nice cuddle - he he!

Another plus point is that they have an excellent Alsatian Gewurtztraminer here. Wine is hysterically expensive in Sydney - very difficult to get a decent bottle for less than $25 (and that is just the Aussie wine - for anything imported, it is more like $40/50). Sardine Room's yummy Gewurtz was $48 - the identical wine is available from the deli down the road for identical price, so not bad at all!

Will definitely, definitely be back.

Italian mama food

One of my most favourite things to cook is lasagne - I love the slow process of making it, having the ragu bubbling away as I make the bechamel, and then trying not to eat the entire pan that evening. I made it for the first time the other day for Jess, here is the recipe I use (plagarised from the Italian food bible the Silver Spoon):

Lasagne (serves 6, or 1 very hungry Connie)

Olive oil
1 large onion
1 large carrot
500g beef mince (ideally not too lean and not too minced)
1 glass white wine
750g bottle passata
50g butter
50g plain flour
500ml milk
Salt & pepper
50g parmesan (grated from fresh)
Lasagne sheets

1. Finely dice the onion and carrot and fry gently in the olive oil until slightly browned
2. Add the mince, making sure to break up the clumps and fry until brown
3. Add in the white wine - I find this is an essential step!! And has to be white wine.
4. Pour in the passata and let the ragu bubble away for about 45 minutes until reduced to meaty loveliness
5. Make a roux by melting the butter on a low heat, and slowly adding in the flour
6. Gently cook (make sure it doesn't burn like I generally do) to get rid of the floury taste, before slowly adding in the milk and whisking as you go. Let the bechemel cook gently until it thickens. Season well. Here it all us bubbling away:


7. Build the lasagne in an ovenproof pan (rectangular is better, obviously) - layer the ragu, then a layer of pasta, then a layer of bechemel, until you use it all up - bechemel has to be the final layer at the top

8. Sprinkle parmesan over the top, and bake at 200C for 25-30 minutes, until the top is browned:


Very very good for lunchboxes :D

PIE!

Sydney is not particularly well-known for its street food, and the only street food really available are meat pies, generally served from pie carts around the city. I am most fortunate to live by a Sydney pie institution, Harry's Cafe de Wheels in Woolloomooloo. It is so near my apartment that on Saturdays, I generally have to walk past the place about 6 times. There is rarely a time on a sunny afternoon that there isn't a crowd outside tucking into their "world-famous" pies, and I've even seen coachfuls of Japanese tourists being ferried there to enjoy pie en masse.

They are most famous for their "Tiger" combo - meat pie with mash, mushy peas and gravy, all piled up high:
And the verdict? Well, the mash, mushy peas, and gravy combo is unbeatable, particularly if eaten slightly tipsy after a night out. But obviously, what you're interested in is the quality of the pie. I have found in general that pies in Sydney are made to survive nuclear disasters - the pastry is generally so thick, and butter does not seem to go anywhere near the making of the pastry. I normally eat the top and leave the rest:

The pie fillings on the whole are better than the pastry, but again, designed for a nuclear disaster. Whatever you have (beef pie, chicken & mushroom pie), pies here are generally really over-salted and over-peppered, probably because there is no edible pastry to balance it all out. How I miss Square Pie in Spitalfields Market...